Project S Extra: Let's make 'Skeleton (clear)' parts!

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Large clear parts like a display frame and a top case have to be made by a professional plastic molder, which is quite expensive and not an easy thing to do for everybody, however, you can make some small clear parts by yourself -- if only you have appropriate materials and good skilled hands!

See some nice works of self-made clear parts here. Aren't they lovely? Below is the instruction. Note that this is one successful example so you may find other ways better. Try various things and discover your own favorite recipes for the best result.
(By courtesy of Hero-san. Thanks!.)

Things you need

1. Silicon rubber (liquid) and hardener (for molding)
2. Oil clay (for molding)
3. Coating liquid for silicon rubber
4. Epoxy resin (for clear parts)
5. Polyurethane resin (for white parts)
6. Toner (for coloring)
7. Some other useful stuff (not essential)
- Polyethylene measuring cups
- Platform scale (or measuring spoons)
- Skewers or toothpicks
- Metal spatulas
- Brushes
- Acetone

How to do it

1. Make a paper (or cardboard, or aluminum foil) wall and fill some clay in it to make a mold for your clear part. It is convenient to use a paper cup as a wall.

2. Put the original part into the oil clay. (A click button is shown as an example here.)

3. Pour appropriate amount of silicon rubber into a plastic cup. Then add a few drops of hardener to it. Stir it until the mixture is quite smooth.

4. Pour the mixture onto the original part buried into the clay. Leave it on the flat place for several hours until it hardens completely.

5. When the silicon rubber becomes hard enough, take the clay and paper wall off. This silicon rubber bit is half of the mold. Before making the other half, spread the coating liquid onto its surface to prevent sticking two molds.

6. When the coating is dried, make a paper wall aroud the mold again. Then pour the mixture of silicon rubber and hardener into it.

7. Remove the clay and paper wall when the silicon rubber is hardened. Make two holes on it (anywhere hard to be seen), one for pouring the resin and one for releasing the air.

8. Mix epoxy resin and hardener. If you would like to color it, add some toner to the resin and mixed it well first, then add the hardening material. (Beware that too much toner would cause a trouble with hardening process.) Warming it up slightly by a hair dryer will make it easy to pour it into the mold. (But be careful, too much heat could ruin everything!)

9. Join two molds and hold them together tight with elastic band, and then pour the mixture of epoxy resin into it gently. Try not to leave any air bubbles in it. Leave it overnight until it is completely hardened.

10. Remove the molds and find what you have done!

Look! If you are really good, it is not a dream to make something like this (made by Maakun-san). Good luck!

It has been known that these hand-made clear parts could be distorted a bit over the hardening process. This is obviously a trouble particularly for the parts requiring the precise size. But here is a good news! Aqua-san gave us a nice tip to solve such a nasty problem. Distortion and most of other failures in making clear parts occur because of the pressure of resin against the mold with insufficient strength. To prevent it, most importantly be generous about the amount of silicon to make thick molds. And after pouring the resin into the mold, put it into the water, so the water pressure helps to resist the pressure inside the mold. It really works! The inventor of this process, Aqua-san named it 'Aqua method'. It is of course because the key point of this method is to use water, as well as he is an enthusiast for aquatic creatures. (See the picture he drew!) So here is the essence of this 'Aqua' method. (Thanks Aqua-san!!) Aqua method 1. Make a thick mold with a deep funnel-shaped hole to pour the resin. 2. Pour the resin into the mold carefully and try to remove the air inside. 3. Put it into the water slowly. Make sure that the whole mold is under the water yet no water gets into the mold. 4. Leave it for two days until the resin is hardened. 5. Remove the mold, and leave it for at least additional one week (preferably three weeks) to complete the hardening process. Be patient! 6. Get down on your knees and pray to God for success! :-)

AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Unauthorized modifications may not allow you to have a full support from Apple. And Duo-Zone International is not responsible for any damages caused by your attempts at those original projects described here. Make sure that you know exactly what you are doing!

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